11/26/2022

36 43 12.4 N
76 14 13.0 W
Atlantic Yacht Basin, Chesapeake, VA Start: 8:30am
Arrive: 2:40pm
Miles: 13.5
Total Miles: 194.7
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First day on the ICW. Lot of big boat traffic through Hampton Roads and Norfolk. Stayed an extra day here to miss the rain.

11/28/2022

36°20'55.1"N
75°56'56.0"W

Coinjock Marina, Coinjock, NC
Start: 9:45am
Arrive: 3:30pm
Miles: 31.85
Total Miles: 226.5
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Tiring day - my autopilot was disabled during a software update - it needed to have a calibration process run, which involves sailing in a few circles. This was not possible because the ICW at this point is a narrow ditch (Or a narrow channel dredged in a larger shallow body of water.) without enough room to do the circling needed for auto calibration.

So I had to hand steer the whole way, not being able to leave the wheel for more than 30-40 seconds at a time. I was really glad to get to the marina this afternoon.

11/29/2022

36°20'55.1"N
75°56'56.0"W

Anchorage Tuckahoe Point, NC
Start: 10:15am
Arrive: 6:15pm
Miles: 46.4
Total Miles: 272.9
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Today was very stressful as cruising goes. My autopilot is still not working. The auto-calibration worked, but did not correct the problem. But worse than that the engine would not start this morning. I figured it was a problem with the fuel filters so I was going to fix it, I had the parts onboard, but foolish me did not have the correct size filter wrench. So I called the local diesel guy and he was great - was there in 30 minutes, replaced both fuel filters in 30 minutes, took away all the mess and charged me less than he quoted.

So I was back underway a little late but it was a short run to the Alligator River Marina. But that ended up not working. I had called ahead the day before and they were having problems with low water levels and they were not sure if I could make it in to the marina through their entrance channel. Turns out my draft was too deep for the entrance channel at this time.

So now I was in the situation of having no place to stop for the night that I could reach before dark. The ICW is not a place I want to be after dark. But this was probably the best situation to be in if I had to do it. The Alligator River is wide and 8-10 feet deep in most places. All I need is 6 feet, so if I wandered out of the channel in the dark it was no problem. And just that morning I had discussed that anchorage with another cruiser who anchored there all the time. And lastly it is right off the ICW so no long diversion to get there.

So off I go to Tuckahoe Point at the south end of the Alligator River. I have an excellent chartplotter and new radar and I have experience on the water at night. But the ICW has all kinds of uncharted stuff that will mess you up. It was about a trip of 1 hour and 45 minutes to get there, the last 45 minutes in darkness, on a clear night with a half moon. I had a lot of time to think about was was coming.

The stress level rises as the sun goes down on the Alligator River.

Eventually as the sunset faded, it got dark. Really dark. I was watching ghostly returns on the radar of things that I could barely see with my eyes even knowing something was there. And steering with the chartplotter is like playing a video game - keep the little boat on the screen between the lines. So with my new electronics I made it to Tuckahoe Point and literally it was 2 minutes off the ICW and I was dropping the hook. Got the anchor set on the first try and suddenly a massive weight was lifted from my back.

11/30, 12/1

36°31'59.2"N
76°32'06.8"W

Dowry Creek Marina, Belhaven, NC
Start: 10:15am
Arrive: 3:45pm
Miles: 26.9
Total Miles: 299.8
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The old and the new?

This is shot of the Alligator River - Pungo River Canal from a previous trip. 25 miles of this...

Today was one of the most miserable days I have had on the ICW. While anchored at Tuckahoe Point, I had no connectivity of any kind, so my weather resources were limited. The forecasts I had access to were not good, and this anchorage was a little exposed for riding out bad weather. So I pulled up the anchor and was on my way. This day's run on the ICW was mostly in a 25 mile canal which somewhat shelters you from the wind and there are no waves at all. What is does not protect you from is the rain. I was planning on a short run of 5 hours, and the first two were not bad, Just some spotty rain from time to time, but not bad. Now, because of my broken auto-pilot, I have to hand steer the boat, out exposed to the weather. So 2 hours or so into the long boring slog down razor straight canals, the skies open up and it started to pour buckets. That was bad enough, at least I was protected from the wind by the trees lining the canal.

But when I exited the canal into the much wider, open Pungo River, I was slammed by 25kts of wind and driving horizontal rain. I was only 45 minutes away from by destination, but there was no way I was going to do that for 45 minutes in this weather. By now I was completely soaked through my foul weather gear and getting really cold. Fortunately, the Pungo River is mostly 8-15 feet deep so I was able to anchor off the ICW somewhat in the lee of the shore. It was an easy process to get the anchor set as all I had to lower it and the driving wind pushing the boat set the anchor for me. I dove below and fired up my propane heater. At last - out of the rain and warm with dry clothes, even if I was bouncing around in the wind and rain.

So I called the marina to reserve a slip and got the local knowledge from the dockmaster. The local forecast had the rain stopping, the wind clocking around to the southwest and calming down considerably by 2pm. 90 minutes later the wind did exactly that, so with a land mass between me and the wind and reduced speed, the waves on the river lay down and I had a calm, peaceful ride and no wind or waves to make docking a simple process as well.

A nice hot shower and laundry done marked the nice end to a miserable day.

12/1/22

36°31'59.2"N
76°32'06.8"W

Dowry Creek Marina, Belhaven, NC
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I decided to take a day off, sit still for a day and work on some boat projects.

12/2/22

35°01'25.1"N
76°41'43.9"W

Oriental Marina, Oriental, NC
Start: 8:00am
Arrive: 3:45pm
Miles: 45.50
Total Miles: 345.3
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The autopilot is working!

A very cold start this morning, frost on the boat. But there was bright sunshine and very little wind and the day warmed up quickly.

As I came to the end of another land cut, I saw these guys - a little larger than your ordinary ICW vessel.

I am in Oriental, NC - the sailing capital of North Carolina. And they still ran me aground directing me into a slip for the night. Second time this trip - I'm getting a little tired of this. But Oriental is a pretty cool little town, there are more boats than people here I am told.

The shrimp fleet in Oriental.

12/3/22

35°01'25.1"N
76°41'43.9"W

Oriental Marina, Oriental, NC
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Stayed another night in Oriental, NC to take advantage of the free shuttle to the grocery store and buy some fuel filters to replace the one I used in Coinjock.

12/4/22

35°01'25.1"N
76°41'43.9"W

Beaufort Docks, Beaufort, NC
Start: 7:00am
Arrive: 11:00am
Miles: 21.6
Total Miles: 366.9
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Short day today, once again due to geography. I did not see any place to my liking to stop around 40-50 miles from Oriental, so I decided to stop here at Beaufort (pronounced Bo-fort), which has a lot of services within walking distance and also a loaner car if I need it.

12/5/22

34°33'04.2"N
77°19'27.0"W

Mile Hammock Bay, Camp Lejeune, NC.
Start: 7:15am
Arrive: 2:30pm
Miles: 38.6
Total Miles: 366.9
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Very COLD start to the day. But with the bright sunshine, it was in the 60's by noon. I am in a little man-made basin, anchored along with 8 other boats in the middle of Camp Lejeune, NC. It's a conveniently located anchorage for stopping for the night, but there there are some disadvantages - like 2 very large helicopters flying VERY low over the anchorage shaking everything on the boat...

Some shots from the ride today:

The ghosts of hurricanes past? The ICW has many of these. I always wonder what the the story is...

 

Another.

 

Wrecks of a different sort. From time to time the Marine Corps closes the ICW and has live weapons practice and blows up old equipment, firing artillery across the ICW.

 

This is my navigation and control station when it's cold with a breeze going. Most everything on my boat is very old, but the electronics are all new. So I can control the chartplotter and autopilot from my iPad. So I can hunker down behind the dodger out of the wind and steer the boat. iPad in the center, cushion to kneel on, guide book at hand Cozy!

 

In case you are wondering how I stay warm out in the cold and wet. This is my outfit for the day all laid out. From the left, there is a fleece vest; hi-tech long johns; stylish Grateful Dead watch cap (worn over a baseball hat); thick, warm socks; a fleece-like shirt from REI 30 years ago that is much too warm to wear in any moderate weather; jeans; foul weather bibs to block the wind; all under my foul weather jacket. Yes, I wear it all at the same time. I can shed pieces to regulate the temperature as the day warms up. But mornings on the water are COLD!

But as my friends say, "There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad gear..."

12/6/22

34°12'18.2"N
77°48'00.0"W

Wrightsville Beach, NC.
Start: 8:15am
Arrive: 3:45pm
Miles: 37.7
Total Miles: 366.9
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A chilly start morphed into a beautiful day that had me shedding gear by 10am.

A 20 second video of the ICW going by...

12/7/22

33°55'35.3"N
78°07'36.7"W

St James Marina, Southport, NC.
Start: 9:40am
Arrive: 3:30pm
Miles: 37.7
Total Miles: 404.6
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When the dolphins aren't around and the scenery starts to look the same, sometimes the best thing to see is the mile markers going by. They measure the number of statute miles from Mile 0 in Norfolk, VA.

It is so nice to not have to bundle up like I am going skiing...

12/7; 12/8; 12/9

33°55'35.3"N
78°07'36.7"W

St James Marina, Southport, NC.
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Stayed another day here because I needed a break, and if I waited a day I could make the timing work out to pass through the junction of the ICW and Lockwoods Folly Inlet, which has shoaled in pretty badly. Nothing like having an extra 4 feet of water under the keel in a shallow area.

There was bad weather predicted so I stayed yet another day here. I should have moved on as the weather was not as bad as predicted.

12/10

33°51'50.4"N
78°38'20.1"W

Myrtle Beach Yacht Club, Little River NC.

Start: 8:00am
Arrive: 2:30pm
Miles: 32.2
Total Miles: 436.8
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Frustrating day - the marina I planned on staying at tonight was full, and the backup had a very low tide and I could not make it into the marina. So I cut the day short as there were no other options that I could reach before dark. On the good side, my friend Kevin arrives today for a 5 day visit and brief foray on the ICW.

12/11

33°40'52.2"N
79°02'28.1"W

Osprey Marina, Myrtle Beach, NC.

Start: 9:15am
Arrive: 1:30pm
Miles: 24.4
Total Miles: 461.2
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Stayed at Osprey Marina, which is a very nice facility with the nicest people.

You know there is a current running when the stationary channel markers leave a wake...

Harborwalk Marina, Georgetown, NC.

Start: 8:30am
Arrive: 3:30pm
Miles: 28.4
Total Miles: 489.6
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Notice the high water mark in the trees from the last big storm that rolled through this place.

Leland Oil Co Marina, McClellanville, SC.

Start: 10:30am
Arrive: 3:30pm
Miles: 26.5
Total Miles: 516.1
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Synchronicity hangin' with the shrimp fleet

St Johns Yacht Harbor, Charleston, SC.

Start: 8:00am
Arrive: 2:30pm
Miles: 38.1
Total Miles: 554.2
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Steamboat Creek, Edisto Island, SC.

Start: 8:30am
Arrive: 1:15pm
Miles: 23.9
Total Miles: 578.1
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Cooper River Marina, Charleston, SC.

Start: 10:15am
Arrive: 2:15pm
Miles: 30.39 (Under Tow)
Total Miles: 608.5
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Steamboat Creek, Edisto Island, SC.

Start: 10:15am
Arrive: 4:30pm
Miles: 32.9
Total Miles: 640.4
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So I was sitting at the anchorage on Steamboat Creek trying to come up with a plan that did not have me getting soaked or freezing or both. The weather forecast was shifting constantly but all included lots of rain and very cold temperatures. I had one bar of connectivity and my connection was dropping in and out. I was hitting the books I had on hand when during my few periods of connection I found a marina that was an hour and a half from my current location. Now all I had to do was figure out when to go.

At the time the forecast was for rain starting that Monday evening and continuing all the next day. Wednesday was iffy, but dry. So I thought I would be sitting at anchor, for all day Tuesday, rocking and rolling and checking the anchor every few minutes and then dashing over to the marina close to me to ride out the rain, cold and thunderstorms that were predicted for the next few days.

But the night was quiet despite 20kt winds whistling through the rigging. It was a narrow creek so there were no waves. All in all a quiet night.

Bohicket Marina, Seabrook Island, SC.

Start: 10:15am
Arrive: 12:00pm
Miles: 9.37
Total Miles: 649.8
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I was expecting the skies to open up on me halfway there, but had a windy but uneventful trip over to the marina and a smooth docking and am now tied up securely at the most expensive marina I have ever been in as the first misting of rain is starting to fall. (Seeing dolphins immediately upon getting underway - always thought to be a sign of luck since people first ventured out on the water. It sure worked out for me today.) I plan to remain until the rain, cold (temp in the teens? In South Carolina?) and the Christmas holidays are over (most marinas are closed then and I am not gambling in this weather). I will be warm, dry, stress free and there is a bar and restaurant on site and more importantly, open! This is my Christmas gift to myself...

Yesterday evening the predicted high winds came in and played havoc in this marina. There is a rapid current ripping through this marina all the time except for the slack period at high and low tides. The high wind kicked up crazy waves when they blew against the current in the creek. The boats were all bouncing around the docks and bouncing off the docks and rocking wildly fore and aft. I had to move out of my bunk in the aft section of the boat to escape the noise of the waves pounding and slapping against the hull. At times it sounded like solid things were crashing against the hull two feet from my head, but it was just the waves.

In the morning, I was trying to conjure up a reason to get out of my nice, warm sleeping bag, when there was a crash! and the boat jerked hard and slammed against the dock. I flew out of bed (already dressed because it was so cold) and went out to find that the waves had made the boat pitch so hard it ripped the dock cleats, plank and all, out of the dock altogether! I had no aft lines to hold the stern close to the dock and the bow was scraping against the concrete piling of the dock. The wind at the the time was probably blowing 30 knots, there were 2 foot waves roaring through the marina. The wind was gusting so hard you had to lean into it to keep from being blown off the dock.

I had to recover the aft dock lines, plank, cleats and all, untie the lines from the cleats and figure out how I was going to wrestle a wildly pitching, 38 foot sailboat back closer to the dock in 30 knots of wind and waves by myself. An impossible job, so I called the marina office for help. Got the recording. Left a message that must have sounded like a crazy person, hung up and called Rick on his boat nearby and he and Gerry came running over. But before they got there, the wind gusts moved the boat to a better position and I was able to muscle it closer to the dock and tie it off to another cleat. Rick, Gerry and the marina staff arrived and we were able to add more fenders, and get more lines added and the marina staff actually added a new cleat to the dock and we got the boat stabilized as much as we could.

Take a look at the video - you can see where the plank with the cleats has been ripped off the dock. Listen to the wind howling and check out the waves and the boat pitching around. We were lucky to be able to get it secure.

Warm, dry and stress free??? **SIGH** Pass the catsup, please...

Skull Creek Marina, Hilton Head Island, SC.

Start: 6:15am
Arrive: 5:15pm
Miles: 56.3
Total Miles: 706.1
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But the sun was up soon after we left and the trip was uneventful. I have the slowest boat and I arrived right as the sun was disappearing behind the trees at the marina. Perfect timing.

Palm Cove Marina, Jacksonville Beach, FL

Start: 12/27, 12:30pm
Arrive: 12/28, 11:00pm
Miles: 130
Total Miles: 836.1
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But everything went smoothly, perfect conditions, small waves and light wind and surprisingly, not bitter cold. Arrived just outside the St John's Inlet light as the sun was rising and it was full daylight as we entered the River.

Odyssey II and Sea Lion offshore and southbound - again.
It was good to have them nearby all night.

 

"All I ask is a tall ship, and a star to steer her by." - John Masefield
Odyssey II off the coast of Georgia...

 

Synchronicity and your Humble Narrator somewhere off the coast of Georgia.

 

This gives some perspective on our passage last night.

Palm Cove Marina

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St Augustine Municipal Marina

Start: 11:30am
Arrive: 4:30pm
Miles:
Total Miles: 836.1
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But when we finally arrived at St Augustine, the waterfront was PACKED. You could barely walk down the street. It was a cool little place. it was a shame to be there on New Year's Day.

The Bridge of Lions in St Augustine.

Hanging on the mooring now and the sun has burned off the all of the fog and now it's actually HOT!

The fog has returned! Completely socked in now. It's a very eerie feeling floating around in a bubble of visibility in the fog. Especially after the sun has gone down.

The Bridge of Lions in St Augustine in the fog.

Palm Coast Marina, Palm Coast, FL

Start: 9:45am
Arrive: 3:00pm
Miles: 21.7
Total Miles: 858.1
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At this marina there are some sort of sea creature (the locals called them 'knocking fish') that tap on the hull of your boat - rather loudly.

This is a recording of it (Use headphones or turn your volume all the way up):

New Smyrna Beach, FL

Start: 9:00am
Arrive: 3:30pm
Miles: 40.1
Total Miles: 898.2
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Titusville, FL

Start: 9:00am
Arrive: 2:00pm
Miles: 27.8
Total Miles: 926.0
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1/9/23 - So much for moving on. I discovered a fuel leak on the boat last night. Spent today cleaning up diesel fuel and containing the leak. The leak is in the fuel fill line and I can go on to Vero Brach and hopefully replace the fill line there. A real PITA job. While cleaning up from today's work I noticed the one of the mounting bolts on the alternator had vibrated almost completely off. Rick on Odyssey II had a replacement for the nut that fell off and with his help got the alternator squared away.

What a trip this has been for boat problems! There is on old joke that going cruising means sailing to exotic places to work on your boat. It's true...

But on the good side there is a Falcon 9 rocket launch tonight at midnight. I'll be watching from Titusville Marina with is about 10 miles away, which is almost a front row seat when it comes to rockets. We should be able to see the booster land as well.

Telemar Marina, Melbourne FL

Start: 10:30am
Arrive: 4:00pm
Miles: 33.1
Total Miles: 959.1
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Vero Beach City Marina, Vero Beach, FL

Start: 9:00am
Arrive: 4:15pm
Miles: 35.0
Total Miles: 994.1
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The view from the moorings

 

 
1/13/23- I have lined up someone to replace the fuel fill line and put the new part on the outboard. The fuel line replacement is one of those jobs which seem easy until you actually try to do it. Plus I'm too old to fit into some of the spaces necessary to wrestle the new fuel line into place...

And all of a sudden I am back into the cruising environment. There are probably 100 boats here, doubled up 2 to a mooring, which they will increase to three if necessary. About half of those boats are heading south. There was a happy hour and there is a Cruiser's Net on the VHF radio in the morning. We have caught up with the floating tribe.

The Grey Tide

 

1/14/23- When I left Annapolis, I had several serious unresolved problems. I knew I could probably have better luck in Florida getting theses items corrected. Today I had my outboard engine fixed, my generator fixed, and tomorrow I will have the fuel fill line replaced. Great progress and a great relief. I was tooling around the harbor in by dink today, it is great to be able to go ashore on my own schedule. From here on out a dinghy (dink) is a necessity.

1/21/23- With all the other issues I have had on this trip, I should have guessed that this would happen. I have contracted Covid. I tested positive on Thursday after I realized I could not smell anything. Symptoms are very mild and most of those are gone now. So - 5 days of isolating on the boat and 5 days of masking after that seem to be the recommendation... Well, if I have to isolate somewhere, this is the place to do it...

2/3/23- Covid was nothing, getting mail delivered, prescriptions filled, small boat projects getting done and enjoying the beautiful weather... Which of course is over now. The weather forecast is for wind and rain for the next few days.

The mooring field at the Vero Beach City Marina. Notice the boats doubled up on the moorings.

 

2/10/23- Velcro Beach indeed! Still here in Vero Beach - if it's not a problem with my boat, one of the others has a problem. But as I described earlier, this is the place to wait out delays... But I am really anxious to get moving again.

Synchronicity on a mooring with a motorsailer.

 

Jensen Beach Mooring Field, FL

Start: 10:30am
Arrive: 5:50pm
Miles: 25.9
Total Miles: 1020.0
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On the good side I stopped in Jensen Beach to visit my friends Bob and Christa. Which is great because I might be here for a few more days at least.

Christa and Bob, Cheryl and Rick (from Odyssey II), moi.

 

2/16/23 - The outboard and depth sounder issues are resolved and I have not been able to find anyone to look at the overheating problem here in Jensen Beach. So I'm going to limp on down to West Palm Beach at a reduced speed in hopes of finding a service facility there as West Palm is a much bigger city the Jensen Beach.

Manatee Pocket, Stuart, FL

Start: 09:00am
Arrive: 12:30pm
Miles: 7.0
Total Miles: 1027.0
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2/19/23 - I have fixed the alternator belt and have left voicemail at every marina I can find. The good part is there are 6 or 7 places within 200 yards of where I am anchored.

2/20/23 - I got a call back from Hinkley's (the Tiffany's of Yacht Serves). They can take me tomorrow. This is a very lucky break to get a call back on the holiday.

2/21/23 - I moved the boat to the Hinkley facility here in Stuart, a trip of 10 minutes... Someone came out and looked at at my boat in less than an hour. I'm waiting to find out what the next step is. 2/27/23 - Finally got my engine problems resolved and have moved to the deep end of the channel while I have the high tide. That way I can leave in the morning even though the tide will be low.

I've been here so long the pelicans are used to me and don't even bother to move...

 

Lake Worth, North Palm Beach, FL

Start: 07:15am
Arrive: 1:30pm
Miles: 24.0
Total Miles: 1051.0
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3/1/23 Weather is not looking good for crossing for the next 5 days at least...

3/6/23 This is what I was worried about. After all the delays getting to Lake Worth, it looks like it's now going to take a while before the weather is right to cross the Gulf Stream comfortably. It probably won't be for another week or so...

So here is a look at a windy day in the anchorage. It's was blowing 15-20 knots from the south and that kicks up a lot of waves here. It makes for a bouncy ride and taking to dink ashore is a vey wet operation with the wind and the waves soaking you pretty thoroughly.

3/18/23 I am now traveling with a bona fide hero.

"The sea was angry today, my friend". This afternoon one of the (more or less) permanent residents on the lake fell into the lake while attempting to board his anchored sailboat from his dink - in this case a row boat - in 20kts of wind and accompanying waves. He is (And I have to be careful here while talking about old guys on boats...) a 'senior', and has some obvious medical issues with his legs.

My buddy boat captain Rick had given him a tow to his boat in the anchorage to spare him the major effort of rowing into 20 its of wind and a heavy chop. He towed the rowboat up to the guy's sailboat and helped him tie up his dink to his boat, before heading home towards Odyssey II (Rick's boat) anchored nearby. But as all of the boats in the anchorage were bouncing around pretty seriously due to the southern wind, Rick only moved a little way off and slowed to make sure [Name Withheld] (and no, it was not me or Gerry...) made it on to his boat safely. And then of course, Splash!!! A wave grabbed the dink, he did the splits and in he went.

As Rick gunned his engine and sped back, our friend in the water struggled to get back aboard his dink while staying afloat, and not really succeeding at either, rapidly exhausting himself. Rick arrived and kept him afloat, but he was too heavy to pull up into Rick's inflatable. (Not an easy task in the best of conditions)

The wind and the waves slowly pushed them to the shore - with our friend clinging to Rick's dink and Rick keeping him above water - and when it got shallow enough to get his feet on the bottom, Rick was able to get him in the boat and took him back to the dinghy landing where our friend had a vehicle. He was mostly recovered, just exhausted, but it was a very near thing. Rick really saved that man's life as he would not have been able to get ashore or back on his boat on his own.

Well Done, Rick!

West End, Grand Bahama Island, Bahamas

Start: 07:30am
Arrive: 10:00pm
Miles: 60.7
Total Miles: 1111.7
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